So. I still wasn't feeling so hot yesterday, and I decided that wherever I went, I didn't want to have a hassel of a trip. The weather for Zakopane (pronounced the way it's written in the title) was to be light rain, so I thought maybe I'd better abort that. Straight to Bratislava, then. Except that the overnight to Bratislava left at 11:00, had a switch at 4, and arrived at 6:30 in the morning, which sounded like it wouldn't exactly leave me feeling better. But I didn't really care whether I saw Bratislava or not anyway, I've heard some very mixed and predominantly negative reviews from other travellers. So, genius that I am, I decided straight to Budapest. The overnight train leaves at 10, a switch at 11, and arrives at 7 AM. Enough time for a good snooze at least. I even bought a ticket for it before realizing that I had not received a bed/couchette. So, back in line to double check, nope, no couchette, none available. Cash refund. Zakopane it is.
The bus to Zakopane was right through a heavy fog (as we reached altitude) in parts and also a thunderstorm, so that stayed exciting. You could look over the thin guardrail and see nothing but white in places. I knew that accomodations in Zakopane were rather thin, and that most people would have luck with private rooms, which I would have to hook myself up with once I arrived at the bus station.
I didn't count on the fact that we would be unceremoniously dumped at some random bus stop in town instead. I was stuck there with no idea where anything was alongside two equally (perhaps even moreso) perplexed doctors from Iran, in the pouring rain. One of them tried to appeal for help but came across as quite rude, so I got the next young couple before he could scare them off (by shouting "INTERNET!" into their faces) and they were quite nice and spoke English just fine. They pointed me at the bus station, which turned out to be just down the street. Regretfully, there were no people with accomodations signs in the bus station. I was looking at the shop in there and debating getting myself a map when the couple walked by, must've seen me inside, and came to check on whether I'd found someone. Which, if you think about it, was really incredibly nice of them.
Anyway, long story short... well, less long than it could be, they helped me chat with an accomodation guy over at the train station and got me hooked up with a private room for 50 zl, which is 5 zl less than I payed for a dorm bed in Krakow. Sure, it's 4km from the city, but hey, it's a bed and I can stop searching. We got in his car and he drove me there, pointing out in Polish where the bus (BOOHS) was to "Zakopane Centrum", a bar on the corner which may or may not have been a nav aid for me, and then the house.
I caught the bus into town the next morning, which was indeed cast in a fog and not so picturesque as it would be in good weather I'm sure. But looking around and finding the main street, I discovered that it was actually a nice albeit touristy town, reminding me a lot of Banff. I was looking for the tourist info place and instead stumbled across a cable car up one of the mountains. I wasn't going to pay to go up there and discover that I couldn't see anything but fog, but there was a pathway along it that I thought I'd climb partway up. Of course, once you start, you can't turn around, so I scaled the whole mountain to the top, about 1000m high, and by then the fog had begun lifting a bit.
In a stroke of good fortune, they had one of those Sesame Streetish (or should I say Sesame Park) cars on tracks, so I took one down (you know I had to) and then back up again. Believe it or not, it was actually pretty fun and they got going at a decent clip. I walked along the trail across the mountain and it, even in the fog, was fairly beautiful. I walked a couple klicks up there and then headed back down, finally discovering the train station/tourist info (no thanks to the woman of questionable parentage working at the infamous HI youth hostel here - but that's another story).
Everyone here seems to be of the opinion that the only way to Bratislava or Zakopane is through Krakow, but I'm going to find another way. If the weather's nice tomorrow, I might stay and rent a bike and take a nice trip to some mountainous lakes just to make my trek here a little more worth it. Otherwise, goodbye Zakopane and good riddance. While some people here have been really nice, there certainly is no shortage of rude people. One of which (yeah, the H.I.-hate-my-life woman) I had some not so pleasant words with as a result. But it could be worth staying if I get away onto the mountain trails. Or have some opportunity to chase after her with a broomstick (which I will borrow from her, provided it doesn't fly off with me).
I caught the 10:05 train with Jolanda and another guide friend of hers to Krakow, though it didn't show up until about 30 minutes after that. Which was good considering we had the slowest ever cashier on the planet. She's in Poland. Who knew? On the train ride there, they told me a bit about Krakow and what I should see, including the Wieliczka Salt Mines, and gave me some stuff to read about on the city and everything. I checked out a hostel called the Strawberry which looked quite unfriendly and was in the middle of nowhere, so I instead went to Kadetus hostel and checked in. Much more friendly, smaller, and a nice place, albeit more pricey. But for the location it was worth it.
It was hot. And my hair had days ago become what we engineers like to call 'unmanagable'. So my first order of business was to finally get a hair cut. I walked into the place and asked the woman if she spoke English. A little. Good. I sat down. Then, inexplicably, she flagged someone else over to do my hair and scurried out the door. Leaving me with a very bored/angry looking girl who spoke no English at all. She didn't smile once. At me. She did smile finally when the other girl came running back and said something, but immediately after that, she bolted out the door, leaving me with half a haircut sitting in the chair awkwardly. She finally came back with no explanation whatsoever and finished my haircut. If you can call it that. Well, it's definitely a cut, and I guess that hair was what was cut, but it's not exactly pretty. It is short, at least, so it's not like it can be too bad, but I think this girl is part of an international chain of hairdressers who give tourists bad haircuts as some sort of diabolical plan to keep people from travelling.
I left the place and discovered immediately the reason she'd left mid-haircut... there was a fire four doors down from us - from the looks of it, a grease fire from the Sphinx Restaurant. I walked past the place as the fire engines arrived and into the market square, on which it sat at a corner. So I watched the fire a little more and it got quite large before they finally got things under control, and smoke occasionally filled the square, so I left and strolled around the city the rest of the afternoon, grabbing some perogies and white borsch soup for dinner and then I went out for a beer with two Scottish girls from the hostel before calling it an early night. We had to be at the salt mines nice and early, after all.
So the next morning, we left for the salt mines, and though it was nice, it wasn't exactly early. We didn't get there until 11:00 or so. The salt mines are quite old, having been used since the 1200s, and were quite important to Poland at the time. Salt was rare then, in Poland, and in the world in general. So rare that it was worth more than gold at times. We descended the staircase (there were a LOT of stairs) into the mine, about 130m deep with our english guide, and he showed us around all the carvings and everything. There was an underground cathedral, ballroom, lakes, and all sorts of stuff there that was quite impressive. All carved right out of the rock salt. Aside from the carvings and massive ballrooms, this is much more what I imagined a mine like than the Potash one I was in back home. Small walkways, low timber beams, that sort of thing.
Afterwards, we came back into the city and I strolled around again, though it was too hot for this. 32 C today, supposed to be 35 C tomorrow, so I made my way back to the hostel. I was feeling quite wiped out and sort of in recovery phase from the sick, so I took it easy in my sweltering room, read a bit, and wound up asleep quite quickly. I woke up the next morning and discovered Jess sitting at the table eating breakfast, which, though I knew she was coming, was still sort of a shock. It's always so cool to run into someone and hang out, and I was quite sure we'd have a Jesstacular (tm) Time. Which we did, but more on that when I get to Sat night.
Jess & I went to Auschwitz that morning and spent a good part of the day there. I had been to a concentration camp before, so it wasn't as depressing as I was afraid it might be, or maybe it was just because we didn't have a guide. Jess & I did buy a guide book though and work our way around Auschwitz I, and while I've said it wasn't as depressing as I was afraid it'd be, it was still horrible. The things that people do. They had rooms full of possessions of the Jews, Poles, political prisoners, and POWs which they kept for resale, not to mention their glasses, toothbrushes, and hair. Most of which was still there on display and quite disturbing to say the least.
We caught a cab to Birkenau, with a very unintentionally hilarious Polish driver in a yellow shirt who we couldn't understand at all. The odd words here and there, but a lot of it was over our heads. He did point out some things of significance on the 3km trip, but, to give you an idea how long he talked to us, it took about 20 mins. He talked about his travels to the US and Canada (after learning I was a Canadian), then about his family, and then... he brought out his photo album. And showed us his wife, kids, grandkids. Jess & I were smiling broadly and it was about all we could laughing whenever we could. We exchanged a lot of, "I can't believe this/This is hilarious" looks and finally left the cab. Well worth the price over the bus (which we would've had to wait 30 mins for), the guy was great.
Birkenau was massive. The scale of people they brought there and killed was incredible. Just acres and acres of row houses where people were crammed in. It was largely still in ruin, which I think is good, certain things you don't restore. We walked along the tracks and saw what there was to see, and made our way back to the hostel. We did have a nice Georgian meal, except our steak looked like, tasted like, and definitely was chicken, even after I'd showed her that one menu said a #7 was chicken and the other steak. Also, after insisting the cheese was on the side, it wound up right on my chicken. But it was good. We also came across a really out there but quite cool Polish ... band... I guess? Check out the video here (right click, Save As). I assure you it was even more hilarious and awesome in person, and we stood transfixed. It wound up being 38 C today, so again, we took the evening a little easy. I still wasn't feeling tops and Jess hadn't really slept in some time, so we called it an early evening in preparation for Saturday night.
Saturday day, we headed to the grocery store, built what may well be one of the most massive but tasty sandwiches ever created (we had people later asking us where we'd bought it), a couple beer and oranges, and took a bus to the lake where the locals all hang out, Krispynov. It was very busy but cool, and definitely refreshing after the heatwave we'd been having. It was 'only' 32 C today, and it was nice not to be sweating and soaking our clothes. We went for a swim and ate as much of our sandwich as we could (Jess has pictures of this momentous occasion) and actually fell asleep on the beach for an hour or so I think. Oh, I almost forgot that that morning, Jess was supposed to head to the salt mines and I was going to sightsee, and I did get a little sightseeing in but Jess ran into some problems with the guy insisting there was no bus to the mines and didn't end up going.
Then, Saturday night. Dinner consisted of the remains of our massive sandwich and a really tasty watermelon we'd bought. I spent an hour on my first ever VOIP phone call home, but it was great, I got to talk to everyone a little bit. Even Denise at the restaurant. Though, being that it was long distance, I was perhaps not as chatty as I might have been. I didn't even get to insult her. They were getting ready for Con & Tara's wedding, which it really was a pity to miss, especially with all the family that was back in Saskatoon for that. Anyway, we ate our dinner and watched the more than welcome thunderstorm pass by from the balcony. It was a nice evening in the hostel.
Then, we went out on the town with an Italian guy and another Aussie. We started at a place called Carpe Diem, which is great, I imagine, if you go as a couple. The music is rocky but the beat is still a 2/4 type of swaying/slow dancing beat, and it was quite funny to dance to. We had a few drinks there and got to talking/joking around a bit with some locals (it might even have been flirting), but we wound up leaving rather soon for a place around the corner with much better music. The people here weren't quite so good as at the other place, but we all had a great time anyway. Jess got up and dancing in the DJ booth, we all had a few more drinks and stumbled home sans the Italian at 3 AM (he stayed out until 6), where Jess & I chugged one of our two litre bottles and called it a night.
Today, I'm off for either Zakopane in the Tatra mountains or else taking an overnight train to Budapest. Jess is off tonight for Vienna. Wherever I end up, I'm sure you'll be hearing about it all too soon.
The evening in Warsaw was nigh, and I was to meet Catherine, Emma, and whoever else might come with at 9:00 or 10:00. The place? The base of the famed King Sigmund III Statue in the old town of Warsaw. I made it there for 9:00, scarfing down some trashy fast food that was definitely not delicious en route. 10:00 was the backup plan because I had no idea what time they would get in, so when nobody showed up at 9:00, I went on a very worthwhile hunt for internet to discover the latest news and meanwhile discovered instead that the old town of Warsaw is beautiful and full of photo-ops at night. I don't get to do enough night shooting, I think I've only done it in Lisbon, Prague, and now Warsaw. I hope that they can convey how great it is here.
Anyway, I got back from my internet hike at 10:05 with the message that they were going to be meeting me after all. It turned out that I caught up to them from behind walking to the statue, so I snuck up on them and snapped a picture as I yelled something more incoherent than usual. It was so good to see them again, really, I only knew them over 20 days, and I've only not seen them for a week, but hey, I missed them. Catherine, Emma, and Danielle had trekked it over to see me, which was very nice of the three, considering it was a 45 minute "Jane someone" power walk and they got my message just before 9:30. Which also explained why there were only three. I hoped. They were to bring me back to the pub where everyone was, but a drink/rest was in order first, so we sat in the old town square with our assorted drinks and caught up on each others' tours. Sounds like Russia is quite the place, with people absolutely despising tourists (and blatantly charging them double or worse, refusing entrance to people they don't like, and generally looking for excuses to earn a bribe). Things sounded bad but very interesting and that really only got me more excited to go/disappointed that I wasn't, but also convinced me that I was not going to go alone. So that decision's been made, for the time at any rate.
After our brief rejoinder, we caught the bus back to their hotel (yes, I admit it was a right turn, not a left), which, I should say, compared to our Contiki campgrounds and my hostel, is the Ritz. 4 Star, Jacuzzi, big comfy beds, sandalless showers, and towels provided. But more on that later. The pub we were supposed to meet everyone at was reputed to be pretty close, but we combed blocks and blocks where it was supposed to be and even where it wasn't supposed to be, if we heard music coming from somewhere, and did not find it. We had to give up, and so I walked back to the hotel (just to give you an idea how unused to hotels I am, I mistyped hostel right there) and bam, Darren in the lobby. And there were the four of us (Danielle had gone to bed when we looked for the pub), just like our cabin in Mo I Rana, except instead of cards, it was vodka, which they were now old pros with. They had some good Russian stuff, and it definitely was good. Man, it was good to see these people again!
So back to this hotel, well, it turns out there happened to be an extra bed in one of the rooms, and wouldn't you know it, they'd already worked out that I could stay there with them. Dean is at the Ritz, baby! Of course, I'd be using the same clothes tomorrow as all my stuff is locked back at the hostel, and I had to borrow Darren's spray deoderant and brush my teeth with their toothpaste and my finger, but it was the Ritz. Better still, I got a nice, cheap as free breakfast the next morning. And then Mel, their tour guide, actually remembered me from our 5 minute meeting in Helsinki (perhaps because she's also Canadian), and before I could ask to tag along for the day, she invited me. What a sweetie! I also got to run into the rest of the old crew this morning, which was a great way to start the day.
I boarded their Contiki coach and there was Jolanda, a local guide for Warsaw, who showed us all the sites and explained their significance. Then, free time. I wandered around with the twins, Dave (ah, The Simpsons juices flowed once more) & Belinda, Rob, Catherine, and Emma. However, that number quickly dwindled as the twins did some errands, Dave & Belinda had lunch, Emma went shopping, and Rob took off for the Culture Center. So Catherine & I strolled down the Royal Road, where all the landmarks are pretty much just lined up waiting. The thing with Warsaw is that it was systematically destroyed by the Nazis after the Jewish ghetto here had an uprising and then the entire city had a second one. They wanted it gone off the map. 85% of the city was levelled, shelled, burned, and blown up. And they rebuilt it, in some parts like the old town, exactly as it was (based on old paintings and photos) but other parts with the benefit of foreknowledge of the automobile. Which means nice, wide avenues and a pretty good layout, and that the monuments, most of which were either destoryed or pilfered and THEN destoryed, could be built again and put somewhere convenient. The rebuilding of the old town was so well done that it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980. So that's a little history to fill out this already sprawling entry.
Anyway, Catherine and I passed the hostel on the way down our stroll, and I went in and negotiated to have the money I'd already paid go for a room tomorrow instead of today since she wouldn't give me a refund. It was quite the effort, but basically it meant I got my next night in the hotel free. And I could REALLY Ritz it up ala my own deoderant. That's right. I also tagged along on one of their optional excursions, to go see a Chopin performance, which was cool. The woman can tinkle those keys, let me tell you. Then, off to dinner with the usual suspects, and out for a night on the town with everyone from our tour that was on the Russian leg. Plus me. It was great to finally catch up with everyone else, too, I hadn't had much time up until then.
The next day, they left at 8 AM, which meant I had to get back to my hostel at 8 AM, which was difficult considering I was tired and sick with a little bit of a stomach flu. Seems I caught the bug that went around their bus. I took some Immodium which did help (eventually) and got back to my hostel anticipating a nice solid crash. Instead, I discovered they had filled up the night prior and I couldn't check in until 2 PM. So no sleep for the wicked. So, I headed off and checked out some of the things we glanced by or missed the day prior, including the other side of town, which you could also call the other/wrong side of the tracks or the Russian district. It belonged to the Soviets and so it wasn't gutted and destoryed by them or the nazis, apparently, but it wasn't exactly the model of urban rejuvenation either. As well, I ran into the Contiki Eastern Europe tour and Jolanda again, and it turns out she's going to Krakow tomorrow as well, so we're going to meet at the train station and maybe I'll get some of the lowdown or a bit of a tour of Krakow. Or else some company on the train. Either way.
Anyway, as I mentioned, I'm a little under the weather but nothing bad, but I wanted to have an easy day (failed). So instead of going out tonight, I thought I'd finally see War of the Worlds. I went with the receptionist from our hostel (the one whom I negotiated my little reservation rearrangement) and quite enjoyed it. Spielberg did a great job, and Tom Cruise didn't even annoy me in any way. Also, I saw some of the previews for other movies and must say I'm quite looking forward to seeing a lot of those when I get back and maybe a few (King Kong) over here. And now, I'm going to bed. Tomorrow, Krakow, and then... the world.
Oh, and I just heard that Jess will be in Krakow on Friday night, so that's really great too, Contikites of Europe, unite!
NOTE: All Contiki Blogs and photos are complete and posted, as well as a new sidebar section on the left for those late to the game. Check it out... if you DARE.
Well, I got mostly rained out of Stockholm (it poured the first night and was on and off the second day) but I'd not taken a three and a half hour train to get one more day in a Stockholm hostel, no sir. Or ma'am. As the case may be. It was also rather exciting as it was my first chance to use the little device on my backpack that covers it so the contents don't get soaked. And I got to unfold my rain jacket.
I strolled around the town, hunting down my hostel for some time, with an American couple in tow who hadn't booked a place to stay. Sadly, my hostel had filled since I booked it, so they were off to try another place, and I searched even longer through the streets of Gamla Stan (Old Town) until finally I got a map and found it. I also hunted down an ATM, because my card hadn't worked in Goteborg, only to find that ATMs here wouldn't give me money either. I had changed the last of my money from Euros to SEK and it looked like that was going to have to do me. It was worrying/frightening that perhaps I'd already exhausted my monetary supplies. I obviously had no idea why it wasn't working.
Given that it was already early evening, I went out for a quick/cheap dinner, if you can call a McTasty that. And, I assure you, I can't. I'm not one to send stuff back, but the salt to beef ratio was high enough that a cow would happily munch down on it, blissfully unaware that there was a hamburger patty at all. The second attempt wasn't much better but I definitely wasn't complaining twice, plus the woman gave me a flurry while I waited, so I was full enough by then anyway to throw out the other half.
I went out to a few bars, chatted with some guys from Africa, and then met two girls (in the washrooms' common sink, believe it or not) who invited me to sit with them. Now I know you're worried about me meeting girls in sinks, but they weren't the small imaginary variety, I promise. Anyway, I sat with them and their friends, one other girl and two guys, and wound up going to a house party with them. I'd heard the Swedish like their candles, but you should've seen this guy's house. It would be such a joke back home, it looked like a make out paradise. Except that it was completely normal for them all to just have a bunch of candles. I jokingly asked if he'd payed his power bill, and I cemented myself as most whimsical chap of the evening. Homer style. Anyway, I got home around 8 AM and grabbed two hours before checkout, then explored the town a little more. It was raining off and on again so I had little chance to take many photos, but I decided to take what I like to call, "Stockholm - the REAL story. The real people." photos instead.
Then, an overnight train to Warsaw, spending my remaining dollar (so my wallet was completely empty) on a snack that would have to pacify me until tomorrow where I HOPEFULLY would have some money again. Thankfully, I did get on the net and discovered I actually have more money than I thought, and also that my stocks have gone up quite nicely . Which means I should be okay for even longer than I'd thought! This seemed like terrific news coming from someone who thought they might somehow have been broke.
Anyway, night train to Warsaw, where I am now, leaving at 4 PM and arriving at 12 PM the next day. I was in a room with some Spanish kids, and got to catch up on my reading a little bit. Well, a lot. I bought another round of English books, having completed For Whom The Bell Tolls, How To Be Good, and Foundation by Ernest Hemingway, Nick Hornby, and Isaac Asimov respectively, thinking that Sweden would be an easier place than many others to get English books since EVERYONE speaks English. I bought Stephen Hawking's A Brief History of the Universe, a biography of Winston Churchill, a really interesting history of science and where we're at today, and some other book whose name is eluding me. I started the science history book on the train, which, again, is well written, funny, and as much about the characters that made the discoveries as about the discoveries, their meanings and implications, and am about 300 pages in of 550, so, considering I slept a lot on the train, it's obviously not bad. The train itself went pretty fast actually, and now I'm here at the Oki Doki hostel (sleeping in a room with a bunch of people who decided, with their extra sheets, that they'd make a little fort out of their bunks... I can't wait to meet them!) and will be meeting a few Contikites that went to Russia tonight who happen to also be in town. This is the beginning of my southern trek to Greece, I'm very excited to get there and see the fam as well as Johnny boy, not to mention Greece. But Warsaw seems cool so far, and I'll let you know all about it soon.
