Wow, so long since an update, where to begin. Probably where I left off is as good a place as any. I will attempt (and doubtless fail) to be brief. When we left last time, I was heading off to Pompeii. Additionally, I climbed up Mt. Vesuvius in time to catch the worst of the midday smog over Naples (though the crater itself was quite cool) and also checked out Herculaneum. For anyone visiting, I'd say that seeing Herculaneum is a better way to go than Pompeii, unless you have a deep historical interest or just want to say you've been to Pompeii. It's more compact but has many of the same features found in Pompeii, and I think it better preserved as well. Pompeii is truly impressive in the scope of the remains, but it's also overwhelming. Perhaps if I'd not attempted all three in one day, but I think it was too much anyway. Vesuvius, for the record, was quite cool to see as far as looking into the crater and at the mountains silhoutted in cool blue fog, but earlier in the morning would probably be a better bet.
I was intending to also check out Naples that evening, but a serious lack of energy and the admission from even locals that there wasn't much to see dissuaded me. Instead, I caught a much overdue shower and a little downtime. Someone ran and ordered pizza and delivered it back to the hostel, so we just sat on the patio chatting. Very nice.
The next morning, I was off to Greece via ferry from Bari to Corfu. I got up nice and early (for no real reason in retrospect) and caught the 8:35 to Casserta where I'd switch to get to Bari. I ended up waiting there for a couple hours anyway, but did finish Stephen Hawking's Brief History of Time. Which got me thinking about some metaphysics and writing down thoughts as though I knew what I was talking about. And it sure made me feel smart. Until, that is, I realized that my pouch where I keep my passport and backups of other documents was open and said documents were nowhere to be found. After a brief moment of panic/searching my immediate locality, I remembered I'd left them in the safe back at the hostel. Bear in mind this was all minutes before the train I was due to catch arrived. Could they courier it to Bari for me? Would I miss my boat? Could I use my existing train tickets?
As I pondered these, I missed my train, which I knew was probably inevitable. So, back to Naples, pick up my stuff, and then do it all over again. I made it to Bari the second time with no further complications (that I'm aware of) and despairing for something to do, started reading Seabiscuit, which turned out to become quite riveting and interesting. I'll have to watch that movie after all. After grabbing a quick gelati, which would be my second and also last in Italy, I hopped the bus, got a cheap deck class ticket, and hopped aboard the overnight to Corfu.
Sleep was not to come easily however. Largely because there was a rather creepy and disheveled-but-trying-not-to-look-it man behind me who, everytime I looked back, was looking at me. One time when he wasn't, it was because he was examining a knife. Having heard plenty of stories of backpacks being sliced and emptied of their contents as the unsuspecting backpacker sleeps, I was having none of this. I proposed to make myself the most alert and awake looking traveller on the bus, tapping my foot, bopping my head, reading my book with as much gusto as could possibly be aroused for a book reading, even as what few other deck passengers remained tucked into their sleeping bags. I'd tried earlier to join forces with a German couple to keep a watch, but the language barrier had thwarted me. He later moved, for no apparent reason, from two seats behind me to two seats behind the German couple as they tucked into their sleeping bags for the night. I then packed my stuff and left as though I actually DID have a room and snuck back to the lower deck where I was later joined with by a few other backpackers and night owls who would make up my watch.
Whether it was paranoia or justified, I don't know. I never heard from or saw the Germans again. But in any case I awoke an hour early to the sunrise thinking I had until 7 before departure and forgetting entirely about the time change. So I quickly had to throw my stuff together when I discovered we were arrived in Corfu, and get off the ferry. Where I was packed on the bus for the Pink Palace, place of legend, backpackers' paradise, and so forth.
There's not much to actually say about my stay there in spite of it. We arrived tired, and I was roomed with a Canadian and Aussie I'd met on the bus, and finally managed to convince them that we had to hit the booze cruise (d'oh, didn't bring my camera), which itself is legendary outside the Palace. The cruise was a good time, though it was to be our first indication of how the numbers had dropped off at the Palace in the weaning hours of August. We jumped from a 15-20m high rock outcropping (with some trepidation, I'll admit), we did a smaller jump in the cave, swam in the cave, went to a supposed monastery, and boated to a private beach for a spell. Not to mention the somewhat crazy antics of fellow passengers. We were all tired from our ferry and big day, not to mention the sun (and a little biere), so we thought we'd get a nap before dinner. Apparently, I was awakened and had a conversation where, when asked what I was doing for the evening, I answered "the beach". In any case, all I really did was sleep until 2:30 AM, read until 4, and then sleep until 8. Much needed.
The next day was a beach day, which itself was quite deserted, and then a tasty dinner followed by going out (no naps allowed). The Palace was deserted, really. I was invited to go into town with some others, and probably should've, but didn't. So it was a fairly tame evening. I learned the next day when I left in the morning, that the current population had dwindled from 1000s to 91 people. Yikes! Then, bus to Corfu town, ferry to Igoumenitsa, and bus to Kalmbaka. I got a room at Hotel Astoria for probably too much money after another long day of travel and grabbed dinner at the local cafeneio, which had TERRIFIC souvlaki. So all was not lost. I finished Sea Biscuit that day as well, and can also recommend that book (I don't recommend Brief History of Time for the layman, though otherwise it seems I've recommended every book I've finished).
Up early again the next morning to explore Meteora. I got the wrong bus in the morning and the taxi ride cost 5 Euro instead, so no big deal, plus I had time for a much needed breakfast - spanakopita. Meteora itself was amazing, massive pillars of rock in a veritable forest of them, with little monasteries precariously holding the top of them. I walked from monastery to monastery, the one made famous by James Bond in For Your Eyes Only was sadly closed for the day, but that couldn't dampen the mood. It was really quite beautiful there. I explored the area for about four-five hours and then made for the trail back down to Kalambaka. Except I took the wrong trail and wound up basically climbing down between two massive pillars in a rather perilous route. But I made it with only a few scratches and caught the train for Thessaloniki.
Which is where I am now. The city itself is a bit of a disappointment and I'm not convinced it was worth making it here, but I guess I got to see it. In any case, I'm here today, and tomorrow I'm off to Athens to meet John, who arrives the day after in the morning. And then, 3 weeks of touring with him, which I've been quite looking forward to, even if it means I have to go to Athens (Dean no likey). Finally, I got myself a cellphone here so if anyone thinks they might have need of being able to text me or call me, send me an email first and I'll get you that number. And I almost bought a car from a guy staying at my hostel for 100 Euro or so (what do I have to lose, really). He's been travelling around but more or less done and looking to either just dump it or get a few bucks back for it. In any case, I decided against it since I wasn't sure of the legalities with insurance and everything not to mention it could be a headache as well. I probably should've just bought it, but a person has to be cautious once in a while...
I'm not sure how much these updates will come now that I'm in Greece, but I'll try to keep them flowing. Pictures to come from my most recent adventures, what little there are (I have a tonne from Meteora but like 5 from Thessaloniki, which really isn't fair, I think I'm just not in the mood for being here right now). See you soon.
We woke up just after noon and relaxed around the house a bit. As would become common in this particular house, I was the first one up, so I took a leisurely and much needed shower and read on the patio. I was to meet Rob in Naples the next day, so my initial intent was to stay for the day and leave the next morning but it proved irrisistable. Not much happened that first day. Marcello has a Fiat 500 which he'd told me I could drive since only Keira and I had licenses, and you can imagine my disappointment when we discovered it wasn't working. His dad had dropped a spark plug in the motor, so we had to pull of the cover and plug it back in. He & I did that while the others were elsewhere, and his uncle (of sorts) Pepe came to try and help. He seemed to know his stuff but would turn out to do more damage than good despite his intentions.
His grandma, who lives nextdoor, made up some dinner for us that evening, a nice pasta, salad, and some fresh Italian bread. What happened that evening, I have no idea, but I think we really did just hang out. I got some laundry done that day, all of which I washed by hand and then monopolised the banister from end to end with my wardrobe. It was a nice recharge day, but since we got nothing done I decided that I should stay another day or two and get a feel for the place rather than running off, and I believed I'd still have time to meet Rob, so no problem.
The next morning, I was up first again, it was sunny, and I sat on the balcony reading and slowly taking up my laundry as it dried. Pepe and Marcello towed the car into town (Atina, I think) to get fixed by a mechanic, which was interesting. It's the only time I've ever been towed and told I could go faster down the hills if I want to, which to me defies several laws of physics. Pepe's an interesting character, whatever else might be said. As we were there, it started to pour, but thankfully all my laundry was in before I left, and we headed back, stopping off at Tony's house, an uncle of Marcello's who'd invited us to a BBQ in honour of a christening, some friends from France being in town, and of course, us. We popped back and picked up the others and headed over there for the night.
Tony is hilarious and is the stereotypical Italian. We met more of Marcello's relatives and friends, and really got to practice the Italian. The food kept coming and coming, and was terrific. One of the guys brought a guitar, so we had an impromptu singalong, and all said, it felt very much like what I remember of Greece. It's only gotten me more excited for getting there. We were there until 1:30 AM (from 6:00) and then walked back to Marcello's place where we lit some candles and chatted the night away.
As usual, I was up first the next morning, and good thing. Pepe rang the bell around 9:30 AM and the car was ready, so I went with him into town and we picked up the car. It was a LOT of fun to drive, I'd love to have one back home! I brought the car back and everyone save Dan was up and quite excited to see the car arrive. The girls and I made a trip to the supermarket for some food and supplies, made some breakfast, and then Marcello, Sefra and I headed up to the castle and did a little sightseeing. We stopped at the bar owned by a brother and sister we'd met at the barbeque the night before (the brother being the guitarist and the sister being the girl I'd talked with quite a bit that night) and hung around. Then we picked up the others, went to a lake, rented a paddleboat, and cruised around for an hour. Afterwards, the girls were tired, so Dan, Marcello, and I hung out at the bar again and I introduced them to three-person cutthroat (a pool game). And also to the REAL rules of pool (they insist that a scratch/foul means you miss your next turn in addition to losing your current one). Since the Fiat only holds four people (and barely), we also had Marcello's motorbike. After returning from pool, Dan & I engaged in some heated table tennis (AKA Ping pong), the boys taught me to drive a motorbike, and I zipped around.
That night, Marcello, Keira, and I made dinner, sausage, mashed potatoes with a tomato sauce that Marcello's grandma had made, fresh salad, green beans, and some nice red wine. Then us boys headed into town, met some of Marcello's friends, who proceeded to take us on the Grand Prix tour up the mountain to a little bar there overlooking the towns in the valley. We stayed for a few drinks/smokes in the case of the driver, and again called it a night after a stop for some Italian pastries.
I had to leave to meet Rob, though I discovered upon finally getting to the internet that he had already left Naples, so I drove the Fiat in to Cassino with Marcello and Keira, and said goodbye to them all. It was difficult to leave and get back to travelling, but the pressure of my Sept 4 deadline in Athens was looming. I should also mention that the place is crawling with "chippers", Irish Italians who own Fish & Chips shops, all of whom have a LOT of money and a LOT of nice cars. You can't avoid them. Anyway, that aside finished, now I'm in Naples, and heading out to a pizzaria with some girls whose claim to fame is that one of the original owners was the guy who invented the Calzone. It comes highly recommeneded from our hostel owner, so I'm looking forward.
Tomorrow, Pompeii/Vesuvius/Herculaneum, then the next day to Bari and ferrying to Greece. Which reminds me, I should get booking my ticket...
My last night in Sarajevo, I went out to the 11th annual Sarajevo film festival (which, incidentally, had its first year in the middle of the war - talk about not letting things get you down) and wound up watching a screening for an upcoming Greek movie called Hostage, about an Albanian who takes over a bus and tries to clear his name of wrongdoing, but has to resort to taking money instead, and taking his hostages with him to Albania. It started a little slow, and I think some editing but became riveting and the two Canadians I met at the show were as impressed with it as I was. The director and a few of the actors sat right behind us, too, so we had pretty good seats. After that, I went to a bakery they knew about (having been in town for about a week) and got some great and dirt cheap stuff. I wasn't tired, so I went over to the City Pub and met some Aussies from the hostel there for a few beer.
I caught the bus the next morning (7:15 AM) for Dubrovnik, not realizing that seats were first come first serve and almost not getting a spot at all. I did, however, get a spot, and it turned out to be next to a little 4 year old girl who could speak three languages (Bosnian, English, German) and embarrassed me to several degrees of red. Granted, she wasn't exactly fluent, but hey, she could count to 10 in English, and I could only get to about three in hers. So, she taught me the numbers to 10 and I taught her the "give me five/on the side/up high/down low" game. Fair trade. The bus was stifling, no air conditioning, sitting on the top floor, and no windows that opened. We sat in our own sweat for over eight hours, made survivavable only because the bus driver enjoyed taking frequent stops for smokes.
I got into Dubrovnik and negotiated with a lady for a decent price considering that I was now single and only staying one night (these guesthouses like to fill their rooms up and do so for a couple nights to save them stress). I discovered that the old town was a 1 hour walk from the main bus station, so I hopped a city bus there and walked around the city walls. Which, aside from a few beaches, is all there really is to see in Dubrovnik. It's beautiful, but dull. I was actually on my way down from the walls to check out the closest beach when I ran across my two English friends - again! It seems that they have some sort of homing beacon on me or something, the odds seem rather stacked against. They were heading out that night, so I went with them, got a couple beer and a tasty burger at one of the few places that was hopping, and then we said our goodbyes yet again.
Meanwhile, I finished my walk around the town walls, strolled through the old town, getting a little lost in the process (all part of the fun!) and finally discovered freedom. I was still in shorts and a shirt and wanted to change my attire for the evening, not to mention finally call home (it's been quite a while!), so I picked up some bus passes and a phone card and went back to my place. Which, I should say, was nowhere near worth the price. Not exactly clean (the toilet was still dirty from the last guy that must have stayed), and while she was nice enough to offer me snacks when I'd checked in, the wafers were soggy, the grapes looked old, and the popcorn I didn't dare touch given that it was doubtless also soggy, had hair in it, and, well, was among the more disgusting culinary delights I've encountered since Portugal. As has been happening a lot lately, and probably in part as a response to me getting in at 2:30 AM and waking at 6AM the night prior as well as sitting on a hot bus, I wound up not going out. My attempts to call home were exacberated yet again by a big thunderstorm that hit, and so I stayed in and finished my latest book, Star of the Sea by Joseph O'Conner, which I must review with the highest of praise. It was an excellent book, and I would recommend it to anyone looking for something to read from a new author.
It turned out that I missed nothing in Dubrovnik that night anyway, I ran into a few fellow travellers the next day and they all confirmed this for me. Also, since I was leaving and had no use for them, I gave away my phone card and a few bus tickets to some nice people I met. It was time to leave, time was tight and I didn't really need to be there another day. I left my place and went down to get a ferry, only to have the woman tell me they didn't have a spot open for another few days. As a matter of the utmost fortune, an Irish girl (whose name, forgive my spelling, was Sefra) sitting in the corner nearby overheard my plight and whispered to me that there was an undocumented ferry running from Dubrovnik to Tarni at 3:30, which only takes 4 hours (as opposed to 8) and is therefore twice the money. I checked the other line, which also didn't have a ferry today, and decided this was what I would do.
So, I got my tickets with them and met her friends, who were all very nice and shared their spot in line with me, ensuring that I got on the boat with them. Marcello, Dan, and Keira were their names, and again, I felt very lucky to meet them. We got primo seats, or so we thought, right at the front of the boat, looking out over the water, and shoved off only 45 mins late - a miracle in this country. It turns out we were sailing right into a thunderstorm with force 4 waves, and I should mention at this point that while peeling fruit like oranges and kiwis is a great way to take your mind off the rolling sea, it's not exactly cost effective given that you don't get long to digest it. Further to this, sitting in the middle or the boat seems the best bet for combating seasickness, rather than right at the front. The more you know...
We arrived in Italy in the heretofore unheardof town called Tarni, and after an excessively long but exceedingly friendly customs stopover, grabbed some pizza, and beer and a train to Bari. From there, I was to go to Naples, and they were off to some small town. Marcello, as the name might have foreshadowed, is of Italian descent, and his parents have a house in a little town nestled in the hills between Rome and Naples (or Napoli as it's called here). We were at the station in Bari at about midnight and I was trying in vain to figure out how to get to Naples as the hotels are quite expensive in Bari (it's the main port town for Croatia and Greece) when Marcello invited me to his place which was only an hour from Naples though possibly on a different train. I tossed the idea around and eventually knew I HAD to do it or I would regret it, so I took the train with them and history was decided.
Our tickets, unfortunately, didn't have reserved seats, and so I wound up being one of those people I always feel sorry for, the backpackers stuck in the narrow hallways. However, it was quite fun. We got some beer, played some cards, I used my little travel speaker and iPod for tunes, and we had a little party on the train. That was great until about 4AM, when tiredness overtook everyone (for my part, I wasn't really tired, but I felt like I should sleep and also my bones were aching). The attempt at sleeping in the area at the end of the cars where the washroom is seemed futile, so I grabbed the washroom and attempted to sleep in there, with the seat cover down of course, and my head on my little toiletries bag (how ironic) on the counter. It didn't work, and I gave up and ventured back into the hall.
We had to switch trains, which was a bit of a panic, and made it to Cassino, where we caught a taxi to the small town. Even the taxi driver had never heard of it, but Marcello knew the way, so we were off. We arrived in a 8 AM and were all excited by this veritable mansion and the promise of double beds. The drive itself was beautiful, a light fog, but turning into low clouds as we climbed into the mountains. And the house was incredible, I once again felt VERY lucky to have met these great people. And then, suddenly, VERY tired (I had travelled about 24 hours in the last two days, if you don't count the early morning of this most recent day as a third day since I hadn't slept). And so, with no reluctance whatsoever, we went to sleep.
